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'I started modelling for pocket money'

Even after spending two decades in fashion, designer Manish Malhotra still feels the same enthusiasm while launching a new collection or dressing up a Bollywood star. In Kolkata for a Chivas Studio show, the fashion guru tells Sreya Basu what it takes to remain on top.

Your entry into fashion was via Bollywood unlike other designers

I used to love watching Hindi movies; in fact, throughout my schooling I only watched Hindi films. I used to watch a film at least 4-5 times. As a result, I was quite bad in studies; but I used to paint and sketch very well. That was the only way I used to pass my science exams, because physics and biology were all about diagrams.

How did modelling happen?

When in college I started modelling for pocket money because I wanted to travel and see the world; coming from a middle-class background I didn't have the resources to do that. Again I could not try at other jobs because I only had fashion and film knowledge. Then I told myself, why don't I become a film director? I even went to a movie set, but I didn't enjoy the atmosphere; may be because it was not my kind of movie. Then I thought of becoming a designer and took a job at a boutique as a salesboy and I kept practicing sketches. I kept drawing and colouring my sketches. I really enjoyed buying fabric, doing clothes and all of that.

So that was the starting point of being 'Manish Malhotra'?

(Laughs) May be.

Then how did you enter Bollywood as a costume designer?

You know, about 17-18 years ago, costumes in Hindi films were not really looked upon as fashionable. Also not much was expected from them, except for one or two designers. I thought since I love Hindi films and clothes, why not go for costume designing. I thought with this, I would be able to change the style in India. Also, the designer boom was just starting then and if I wanted to make a mark, then costume was the best way for me because I love movies.

'I tried to make Hindi films fashionable'

And how did you plan to 'change the style' in India, rather Bollywood?

I got into characters to find out what will be the right kind of styling, hairdo and the make-up. Hindi film heroines were lacking continuity in those days. They would have short hair in one scene and in another they would sport long hair; and so much over-dressing in a song! So I kind of got pastel colours in fashion.

In films like Raja Hindustani for Karisma Kapoor and Urmila's Rangeela, I tried to completely metamorphosise costuming in films and then there was no looking back. I tried to make Hindi films fashionable.

Yeah... you made Urmila look really hot in Rangeela...

The look was sensuous but it was not hard.

Another milestone in your career was Dilwale Dulhaniya Le Jayenge...

DDLJ was a film where I was working for the first time under Yash Chopra's banner, he being my most favourite director. And it was Adi's (Aditya Chopra) first film. All of us were so new and there was such a high level of energy!

And you do makeovers as well

Makeovers are a part of styling actors in a film. It is a part of making actors get into the skin of the character they are going to portray on-screen.

Of all the actors you have dressed and also done makeovers for, who remains your all-time favourite?

It is difficult to say because all of them are my friends. But Kajol has a lovely way of carrying clothes. She doesn't have this ki 'look at me'.  For makeovers, some of my favourites are that of Urmila in Rangeela, Karisma Kapoor for Raja Hindusthani, Priyanka Chopra for Dostana and the latest being that of Sonam Kapoor's for my nephew Punit's film I Hate Love Stories.

'If you are confident, you can carry off anything'

How do you balance between films and mainstream?

You know I was the first designer to come from films to mainstream. At that time films were not acceptable in mainstream. But since my films like Dil Toh Pagal Hai introduced pastel colours and soft styling into films, my name got popular. I opened my Reverie-Manish Malhotra store and got quite a few weddings; so that got accepted. From there I shifted to Sheetal Design Studio, where I worked for three years. And today I have my own label.

What's your signature style?

I think my signature style is colours, because I had learnt painting, not designing.

So what colours do you suggest for fat and thin people?

I meet a lot of people who say, 'I am fat', 'I am thin', 'I am dark', 'I am fair'. But clothes are about your mind, they are about your confidence. If you are confident, you can carry off anything, if you are not, then you won't look nice in anything.  At the end of the day, it is absolutely about 'You'.

What is the mantra of remaining on top for 20 years?

The only mantra is hard work, hard work and hard work. There are no alternatives. To me, hard work plays a more essential part than talent for a person to be successful.