Photographs: Sanjay Sawant
It was timeless, gorgeous, luxurious, captivating, harmonious, regal and sumptuous. It harked back to an era of resplendent royalty not seen in India for centuries.
In short, Vikram Phadnis's Indian bridal formal wear collection was like chancing upon a 15th century Rajasthani Maharani's closet.
Sushmita Sen in the green and champagne showstopper providing a fitting end to the Fourth Day of Lakme Fashion Week, and Phadnis again proved himself to be one of India's very, very top designers.
Set to a background of soft, melodic chanting, tabla beats and the sounds of nature, the collection transported the star-studded audience to another time and place.
Let's join them.
Lisa Hayden kickstarted the collection in this flouncing ghagra, paired with a orange dupatta. Talk about a rural paradise!
Note how Phadnis plays with transparency and layering, to give the garment lushness and body. It would prove to be a hallmark of the collection.
In short, Vikram Phadnis's Indian bridal formal wear collection was like chancing upon a 15th century Rajasthani Maharani's closet.
Sushmita Sen in the green and champagne showstopper providing a fitting end to the Fourth Day of Lakme Fashion Week, and Phadnis again proved himself to be one of India's very, very top designers.
Set to a background of soft, melodic chanting, tabla beats and the sounds of nature, the collection transported the star-studded audience to another time and place.
Let's join them.
Lisa Hayden kickstarted the collection in this flouncing ghagra, paired with a orange dupatta. Talk about a rural paradise!
Note how Phadnis plays with transparency and layering, to give the garment lushness and body. It would prove to be a hallmark of the collection.
Regal gold and blue
This regal gold and blue churidaar kameez harks back to the Mughal era. Note the net dupatta, which is actually a shroud. And how about those embellished motifs? They're all hand-woven, by the way.
Mughal-style brides
The universal consensus is that Phadnis has actually brought up his own ridiculously high benchmark. The garments kept flowing down the runway, each a unique, intricate creation of the highest order.
Here, another churidaar kameez and dupatta combo. And note the little details: fabulous footwear and the traditional hairdo, a long-braid with jasmine flowers and small embellishments.
Here, another churidaar kameez and dupatta combo. And note the little details: fabulous footwear and the traditional hairdo, a long-braid with jasmine flowers and small embellishments.
Red and green, a gorgeous contrast
Here, the model wears a sherwani-looking blouse with a sari's pallu interwoven and interspersing in the blouse, and over the left shoulder. Refreshingly simple yet masterfully complex.
Indigos and blues
Indigo, robin's egg blue, and regal lavenders and purples. The colours were luscious and absolutely perfect.
And not the ornately detailed yet fabulously modern patterning in this bridal garment, a Nehru jacket-style top over a flowing ethnic skirt.
And not the ornately detailed yet fabulously modern patterning in this bridal garment, a Nehru jacket-style top over a flowing ethnic skirt.
Fusion designs
Phadnis, though a classicist of the highest order, was not afraid to experiment. Note how he combines different drapes and silhouettes to create a novel effect. This sari/salwar look is simply inimitable.
Silver detailing dominates
Impossibly intricate silver and gold detailing defined the collection. Each and every garment could have come from a treasure chest!
Gorgeous ghagra
Another striking top over a billowy, voluminous ghagra. See the classic and almost effortless pairing of patterns.
A natural, elegant infusion of colours and layers
Here, four layers and a handful of colours play off one another to create a truly special combination. And note the traditional gold footwear.
Elegant embroidery
This classic purple and orange sari is noteworthy for its spectacular embroidery work. Phadis demonstrates how Indian formalwear deserves its place in the pantheon of high fashion.
Menswear enters the equation
Purple and gold, that most classic of regal colour combination, featured heavily in Phadnis's collection.
See the shimmering silk dupatta, which gives the garment depth and added character.
Amazing angrakhas
The bold, royal patterns truly befit today's kings and queens. See this fierce red angrakha and gold dhoti's combo.
Bejewelled beauty
A simple chaniya choli is transformed into an opulent bridal garment dripping with embellishments and detail work. Bravo, bravo!
A feast for the eyes
The audience literally gasped at certain points in Phadnis's collection, this being one of them. See how the transparency of this classy orange dupatta turns this traditional outfit into something special.
Modern patterns make an appearance
While paying homage to India's glorious past, Phadnis also looked forward in creating clothes for the modern Indian bride. See this luscious velvent ghagra beneath a netted dupatta. Not the modern pattern on the ethnic-style blouse!
Royal blue reverie
Though every colour from the under rainbow made an appearance, it was blues that Phadnis seemed to enjoy playing with the most. See how sky blue and sea blue combine to create an otherworldly effect, all atop a deep blue velvet
ghagra.
ghagra.
Flower patterning
The patterns were dizzying in their number and complexity. See this Indo-Oriental floral motif atop a cream-coloured ghagra.
Sushmita show-stops
India's favourite beauty, Sushmita Sen, pulled off the archetypal Indian bridal look, with this exquisitely complex green and gold garment. This is not mere clothing. This is art.
The man of the hour and his maid of honour
Cool, casual and calm, Phadnis soaked in the crowd's adulation with characteristic poise. Sushmita, you look fabulous!
A fitting end to a heart-pounding, spell-binding collection.
A fitting end to a heart-pounding, spell-binding collection.
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